HARD KNOX CAFE...EATING SOUTHERN WHENEVER I WANT TO

Southern food (soul food or whatever you'd like to call it) was the fad of the moment a few years ago with an array of restaurants in the Bay Area doing it to one degree or another with varying measures of success. Back in 1999 though, it became the goal of one Tony Hua to open a place that served up delicious homestyle soul food. He realized that dream with the opening of Hard Knox Cafe in what at the time was a little known SF hood called Dogpatch. These days, Dogpatch is happening with UCSF, tech start-ups, new condo construction, Third Street Rail and the future home of the Golden State Warriors at 16th and Third St. But the restaurant was a success long before that and even spawned an location out in the Richmond District. I've been going for many years to eat there and considered it one of my hidden out of the way faves. Sadly, particularly when there is a baseball game, the place can be mobbed. Still, during the week it's relatively easy to get in or get take out. I figured I might as well review the place for those few folks who don't already know what they may be missing.

YOUR WEEKLY DIGESTION OF FOOD NEWS TO CONSUME AND SOME JUNK FOOD JUNKIE

Sometimes the corner market can yield surprises, especially if you've got the munchies. I wandered into one recently to get a soda and saw this bag of delight sitting on the shelf. I remembered that Lay's did another one of their fan created flavor contests and they had paired it down to 4 flavors for folks to vote on. Evidently, the winning flavor was wasabi ginger--which makes me gag a little bit--but there still seem to be some of this other one floating around. I would have thought this had a better chance of winning since it has the hallmarks of comfort food. Still, I was interested to try some and plopped my money down and ran home with my bag. I gripped the edges of the bag tightly and slowly pulled it apart. The immediate aroma from the bag nearly attacked my senses with a smell that bordered somewhere between fake bacon dog treat and vomit. It was strong, like a mushroom cloud invading the apartment. I kept the bag at arms length and debated should I really even try one. Ha, who am I kidding, yes I'm gonna try. I take a chip out of the bag while simultaneously holding my nose and pop it into my mouth. The instant flavor I get is salty, then I'm hit with notes of some cheesiness and more salt, but not really any bacon. I felt like a I was in that "Golden Girls" episode where Rose makes that foul smelling crispies dessert and the girls all sit around the table eating it while holding their noses. Yeah, just like that. The chips just taste like salty cheesy potato chips and beyond the stink I can see why they didn't win. I'm still wondering how they thought they could infuse the mac part into it as none of it really brings back memories of bacon, mac or cheese. I didn't even finish the bag and neither did the SO. Normally he can eat anything, but not these. Kind of tells you how bad they smelled and how ordinary they tasted. Well, while they didn't bring up any childhood comfort food memories I did get that "Golden Girls" flash so I will take "comfort" in that, but I definitely wouldn't recommend these--unless you are out of Beggin' Strips for the dog.

• Something from some Guys about something called halal is coming to town. East Coast transplants seem excited about this.
• Marlowe is spinning off it's own burger with a new joint called Marlowe Burger--in its former space. Catch all that?
• That old Dixie Presidio space has been snapped up and cut in half to make a hipster beer hall. Will they come to the Presidio for it?
• Austin's Franklin BBQ is doing a pop-up in San Francisco for their new cookbook. Lines now forming in 3..2..1...
• The food and culture of Jewish Delis featuring local fave Wise Sons.
• Coffee shops do open in other places besides the Castro. This Inner Sunset spot is also doing that "toast thing." 
• And in more Sunset news (shocking!) they now have their own micro-brew pub restaurant spot. But will hipsters go to Sunset for it?
• Local spots get some James Beard Award Semifinalist appreciation, probably because Le Bauer is on the nominating committee. 
• The Oscars are tonight but you don't have to watch them alone in SF. These places have got you covered with other like minded movie award lovers
• Craftsman & Wolves is expanding their baking empire to Russian Hill.
• TOURISTS DON'T PANIC! DOTTIE'S TRUE BLUE CAFE IS ONLY TEMPORARILY CLOSED! Locals like lining up elsewhere and aren't really concerned.  
• Since Source in SOMA closed don't fret, there's a new vegan place opening in the Richmond.
• The old Patio Cafe space in the Castro finally back in action? I'll believe it when I see it. 

BARTLETT HALL IN UNION SQUARE....LUNCHING WITH HIPSTER MILLENIALS

Union Square is a hotbed of tourist activity and a place many of us locals usually try to avoid unless entertaining out of town guests. I don't usually look for places to eat in the area. I know they are there but images of over priced tourist traps dance through my mind when I think about it. It's an area I've been to a lot, though my knowledge food establishments around it is limited. I have noticed over the last few months there have been a number of places that have opened in the area to some modicum of fanfare and I've kept them on my radar of--if I happen to be in the area--to give them a try. Recently the SO and I had a friend visiting who was staying downtown so what better time to eat someplace new. One spot I'd seen was Bartlett Hall. It was one of those places where the booze menu seemed to be as important as the food menu so what better time to try it than lunch! Yeah, I don't necessarily drink and I'm all about the food, so that's what I'm going for.

SOUL GROOVE IN THE TENDERLOIN.....GETTING MY CARBS ON

The Tenderloin is a sketchy neighborhood in downtown San Francisco. That's not a knock, it just is what it is, and anyone who has lived here a long time will tell you the same. It's one of the last 'hoods to experience the makeover process that is going around in the rest of the city. Make no mistake, it is currently happening, it is just taking a little longer. Eventually it will become a little less interesting than it's current state. Till then, if you want to enjoy some of it's "charms" best to hit it up now before all is gone. Some of the interesting things found there are of the food variety--and you can definitely come across all flavors. Most are unique hole in the wall places serving up decent, not too pricey fare for the lunch goers who work near City Hall and Civic Center area. One such place I stumbled across one day while looking for Saigon Sandwich was Soul Groove. A small spot that's gotten a rep for serving up chicken and waffle sandwiches. Of course, they had me at waffle, and I finally had a week day off to get back there and give them a try.

APPLE FRITTER EDITION OF YOUR WEEKLY DIGESTION OF FOOD NEWS

Walk into most any corner donut shop in this town and you'll find the bestests, worstest "donut" of all time. Yes, I mean the apple fritter. Me and the fritter go way back and I have a real love/hate relationship with it. The love--it's deep fried dough with apple bits, cinnamon, occasionally some brown sugar covered in a sugared glaze. And since it is also the size of a baby's head it is a sugar crash come in waiting. I've been eating these for nearly 20 years. There was a time (meaning younger) when I seemed to have one practically every other day. But you know, the body doesn't process these things as well the older we get so these days I will break done and get one if I'm in the mood for a pound of sugar and fried dough. Of course the hate is the calorie count from even just a small bite--it is carb overload. Also, depending on where you get one there are varying degrees of doneness. I like mine a nice golden brown, but sometimes I see ones that are nearly black along the edges and more mahogany than golden. Usually that means it was cooked too long and will taste like burnt sugar or the oil in their fryers hasn't been changed in awhile and god only knows what it is gonna taste like. Sometimes ones you get will be done on the outside but still a little doughy on the inside. Some folks like this, me, not so much. I do like them cooked all the way through. I also wish some places would put more apple in them. Many times I'll come across a clump here and there, but even distribution seems to be elusive. The one seen above and below was mostly all the things I like in a good one, though a little doughy and the apples clumped in the middle a bit. Still, it was a sugar rush and I gluttonly ate the whole thing. You'd think that much greasy dough would upset the stomach but not mine. Though I do throw that out there as something to be aware of for folks--grease, dough, sugar--it's all here. This is not for lightweight dessert eaters, it is for the hardy--like me--so first timers need to be careful. I would like to add that the big surprise for me is how popular they are in this city that can seem a bit health conscious. I guess I can just chalk it up to transplanted folks like me or drunks and pot--yeah, it's probably the drunks and pot. 

• Since Charle's Phan has closed some restaurants, seem he's got time on his hands to do pop-ups in Brooklyn. He is planning a restaurant there too. 
• Explaining the cost of rising food prices while in the restaurant business.
• More high end chefs are going down the 'fast food' trail. Will the prices also be 'fast foodesque'? 
• Taqueria's in the Sunset, if you live there and don't want to journey all the way to the Mission.
• The Infatuation highlights some mostly overlooked North Beach eats. 
• Wow. I hadn't even had a chance to go and already it looks like I probably won't be able to.
• Ugh, really, what did we in San Francisco do to deserve this?
• Blue Bottle is now big in Japan, and will soon be joined by Tartine.
• Sandwiches under $8 in San Francisco?!! I don't believe it! 
• It's chef changes galore in the city these days.
• I'm sorry but between the photos, the menu, the prices and the chef talk--this is the kind of place that makes me roll my eyes. I mean 5 tiny legs on half a crab and a ramekin of flavored butter for $20?! 
• Evidently it's Beer Week in San Francisco. Here's all the shenanigans for you. 
• Ever want to make Brenda's Soul Food Kitchen gumbo? Then here's your chance. 

TAQUERIA LOS COYOTES...WOULD IT STILL BE GOOD IF I WASN'T REALLY, REALLY, REALLY HUNGRY?

Taquerias in the Mission, they are a like Starbucks in the rest of the city--there's one on every corner. But how do you tell one from the other. Some are crowded, some are empty, some look large, clean and spacious and some look like you could get food poisoning, mugged or stabbed just by walking in the door. Most times though you just have to take a chance as some of the best places to eat are quite literally a hole in the wall, especially where the Mission is concerned. On this particular Sunday night me and the SO are in the hood to catch a show at the Victoria and are really hungry. Enough so that we don't want to walk to far to find someplace to eat. Thus by default, we end up a block up 16th Street from the theater at Taqueria Los Coyotes.

JOLE IN CALISTOGA...OH GOODY, THEY ARE INTRODUCING A NEW MENU TONIGHT

**Another one bites the dust. Seems this Calistoga fave has closed and the space been sold to a neighboring spot for a new concept****

On our wine country jaunt over the holidays we were able to try many different wines and several different restaurants in the area. I previously reviewed several of the places we went though not all of them. There was one restaurant we dined at that has gotten some good press since it opened. It's one of those farm to table places run by a husband and wife team--he's chef she's pastry chef. I was mildly intrigued to try the place based on reviews I'd come across. It's called JoLe and it's on the main drag of downtown Calistoga. We had reservation for New Year's Eve of all times. It's in the ground floor of a hotel and is a smallish place with two topper tables and a small bar. We took our seats and as the hostess handed us our menus we were informed they were presenting brand new menu this evening. Oh joy, I thought, untested dishes. Thus it has taken me sometime to digest what I thought about what we had while taking into consideration our guinea pig status. But hey, that's what eating out is about sometimes, being adventurous and trying something new.

YOUR WEEKLY DIGESTION OF FOOD NEWS TO CONSUME...PLUS SUGAR DESSERT SADNESS

My tour of Neighbor Bakehouse continues with what I'm gonna call one of their light bites--a sugared brioche. This was almost like a puff of sugared air. Light puffed dough sprinkled liberally with sugar. As dessert pastries go, this is very light, like a puff of air. Almost too light, particularly for me. Liked it? Yeah, but after I ate it, it was gone from both my senses. I vaguely remember sugared bread and then not much else. As opposed to the sugar bun thing I had from last week, this one didn't leave much of an impression. I usually like some heft to my desserts and this did not have that. If you are looking for a light bite then this is your bet, if you want something a little more substantial, you'll need to get another item. Though getting something else at this point may become a challenge for you as it has for me. Word seems to have gotten out about this place and on my last 3 visits there has been a line of some substance and well, I don't do lines. Not to mention that when I peaked in the window, most of their offerings were already gone. One day they were totally out of all sweet treats. The lady said they will have some more in 8 minutes or so, which was not worth the wait for me since I was already in a hurry to get to work. I guess popularity is breeding some discontent for me. I'm happy they are doing well, but bummed that, unless I get lucky one day, I won't be able to stop here anymore since I don't usually have time to wait in a long line and then find out they are out of what I'm looking to get. For those of us who live/work in the hood we can be happy for Bakehouse but sad it's no longer easy for us to just pop in for something. That seems to be the case with anything really good in SF no matter where it is located. People find out and come in droves and those of us who were first on the scene get sort of shut out. I can only hope the frenzy dies down a bit and they can reach of balance of shorter lines and product availability. Till then I'll continue my dessert quest in other ways. 

• Bauer says he's going to remain anonymous, but still pal around with famous chefs and have his mug found around the internet.
• That manufactured holiday is coming up so here's some date night places for ya'.
• Daniel Patterson of Coi fame thinks he's got the fast food burger you will want.
• Humphry Slocombe's doing pop-up pastry places with Press 12 now.
• Paleo dieters have their own restaurant now, in Berkeley of course.
• Here are some restaurants for that manufactured holiday coming up.  
• Charles Phan's magic touch seems to be waning these days.
• The big devastating fire in the Mission affected people, pets and business including Wise Son's Deli--Inside Scoop has the scoop. 
• It's East Bay and new Oakland eats because, well, I'm not sure. 
• Choux Bakery is no longer kosher--passover is gonna suck for folks. 
• The Castro is getting another coffee shop---yeah?